Back the Way We Came: The Pounamu Highway

After four days and four nights in Greymouth, we were ready to leave town. Any excuse to leave the cold, rainy, and grey west coast was welcomed by all of us, especially those who had fallen ill these past few days. Of course, it wouldn't be a morning in Greymouth without breakfast at Maggie's Kitchen. We each ordered our usual fare and signed a thank you card for Alan and Maggie, the proprietors of the restaurant. Once we expressed our gratitude and said our final goodbyes, it was into the GatorWaka to return to Lincoln University.

The original plan was to drive through Lewis Pass, but Dr. Hostetler's persistent cold meant we had to drive back through Arthur's Pass to quickly return to the Canterbury plains. Getting everyone back to rest and recuperate was our top priority to return to fit and fighting shape. The transition from wet and rainy podocarp and beech forests to dry tussock grassland was most apparent on the drive back.

The one stop we did take, however, was at the Cavern Stream Scenic Reserve, home to an underground river. The short hike to the edge of the limestone bluffs granted us a view of the stream below. Over many years, the stream cut through the limestone, and had two principle caves for exploration. Due to time constraints and difficult terrain, we decided to forego the first cave and head for the second one.

The Cavern Stream, photo taken downstream. Primary cave entrance seen to the right of the stream.

Further downstream, the stream terminated into a sinkhole. The rushing water disappeared back into the Earth, where its ultimate destination would be unknown to us.

Lexie leading the way!

Entrance to the secondary cave and termination point of the stream.

Water swirling back into the Earth.

The caves of this region also held special significance to the Maori population. During the Maori New Year, the Pleiades constellation comes into view and its arrival signifies the beginning of the new year. Matariki, short for Ngā mata o te ariki o Tāwhirimātea, or "the eyes of the god Tāwhirimātea" is both the name for the constellation and the new year celebration.

In descending order of elevation, Arthur's Pass, Lewis Pass, and Haast Pass were used in pre-European times by the Maori people, namely the Ngai Tahu Maori, to transport greenstone, or pounamu, from the west coast to the plains of the east coast for trade. This valuable jade was transported in harekeke flax fiber bags to be exchanged for kumaru, or sweet potato. After European contact, pounamu was traded for pigs, sheep, or even muskets. Many of the Maori made this hard journey by foot with harekeke linen garments that had additional insulation from moa feathers. Hard to believe, since we all were shivering in the cold with even our multiple layers of modern synthetic clothing.

No sooner had we left the scenic preserve did the skies finally brighten up!

Many of us had purchased jade on the west coast for personal wear, or as gifts for friends and family back home. Even though we had the GatorWaka to take us back, it was an incredible experience to re-trace the steps of early greenstone merchants on the Pounamu highway. - Bauer